What are the surprise and “firsts” of the eight new Patek Philippe models?

As the only remaining independent family-owned watchmaking company in Geneva, Patek Philippe was founded in 1839 to preserve the highest level of craftsmanship while creating a wide range of timepieces, including Grand Complications, Utility Complications, timeless classics, sporty elegance, women’s fine jewelry watches, and rare artisanal timepieces.

As Thierry Stern, the current President of Patek Philippe, puts it. As Thierry Stern, the current President of Patek Philippe, says, the brand’s legacy is not built in a single day, and its tagline echoes this: “No one really owns a Patek Philippe, they just keep it for the next generation.” Undoubtedly, as one of the few fine watchmaking houses active in any market segment today, Patek Philippe has a strong market presence, with its new models serving as a reference point for market trends. This fall, Patek Philippe has just released eight new models in October, revealing a new wave of trends and concerns.
The first chronograph in Patek Philippe’s history to be created exclusively for the left-handed is a refreshing departure from the original design of the pushers and the layout of the display. The new Ref. 5373P-001 is a left-handed version of the previously available Ref. 5372P, with its operating elements and displays positioned in the opposite direction to those of the previous Ref. 5372P. Patek Philippe has reinterpreted this particularly sophisticated split-seconds monopusher chronograph for right-handed wearers.
Of particular note is the hand-wound CHR 27-525 PS Q caliber, Patek Philippe’s first in-house produced chronograph movement, which is a striking replica of the classic lines of the vintage pocket watch era. Today, the Ref. 5373P-001 is the only model equipped with the CHR 27-525 PS Q movement. This movement was used in the Ref. 5372P-001 and Ref. 5372P-010 watches, both of which are no longer in production.
The pioneering CHR 27-525 PS hand-wound movement, developed by Patek Philippe in 2005, was at the time the world’s slimmest column-wheel split-seconds chronograph perpetual calendar movement. The CHR 27-525 PS Q caliber, created in 2010, uses the same base movement with an ultra-thin calendar mechanism, and at just 7.3 mm thick, is Patek Philippe’s slimmest split-seconds chronograph movement to date.Since 2017, this caliber has been produced only in small batches for platinum models with a blue heliotrope dial (Ref. 5372P-001) or a rose gold-plated dial with a vertical satin finish (Ref. 5372P-010).

Like the Ref. 5372, the Ref. 5373P-001 is housed in a platinum case with a diameter of 38.3 millimeters. Its complexity and thickness of less than 13 millimeters are a testament to the finest in Patek Philippe watchmaking. The platinum case is complemented by a charcoal grey dial with vertical satin lines and black trompe l’oeil edges, an ebony-black snailed subsidiary dial, and red lacquered chronograph seconds and split-seconds hands. The black calfskin strap is embossed with a textured pattern and contrasting red stitching for a sporty look. Water-resistant to 30 meters, this exclusive timepiece is produced only in small batches.

Designed for the left-handed, it features an unusual design with an integrated monopusher chronograph crown at 9 o’clock and a split-seconds pusher at 8 o’clock. The perpetual calendar features a windowed day, month, leap year and day/night display, as well as a pointer-type date display, a moon phase at 6 o’clock and small seconds at 3 o’clock.

The moon phases are extremely accurate, with a margin of error of one day every 122 years. The polished, concave bezel is integrated into the slightly curved sapphire crystal, which is complemented by concave satin-brushed case sides and curved lugs, as well as lugs that are seamlessly attached to the lugs. The chronograph and aperture displays on the dial are rotated by 180°, and the three chronograph hands – the center seconds hand, the split-seconds hand, and the 60-minute totalizer hand at 9 o’clock – are lacquered in red, making them particularly distinctive and easy to read at a glance. The three chronograph commands – start, stop and reset – are controlled by a single push-piece on the crown at 9 o’clock.
On the back, the sapphire crystal reveals the delicate construction of the CHR 27-525 PS Q caliber, highlighted by its molded parts and traditional bridges. The two column wheels are fitted with polished domes in the unmistakable Patek Philippe style. The bridges are meticulously beveled and polished at the edges, and are decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes. The new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant-cut diamond on the side of the case. A unique feature of the left-handed model, this diamond is set at 12 o’clock, at the very top of the dial.
Since its launch in 2004, the Aquanaut Luce women’s watch has won many favorites for its distinctive, elegant and versatile design. Following the launch of the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Dual Time Ref. 5269/200R in 2021, Patek Philippe continues its sporty and stylish approach with the launch of the first ladies’ selfwinding chronograph, Ref. 7968/300R-001, the first chronograph in the Aquanaut Luce collection.
Designed for the modern woman, the Aquanaut Luce Chronograph is named “Luce” (Italian for “light”) after the sparkling fire of the diamonds on its bezel. The new chronograph Ref. 7968/300R-001 is crafted in pink gold, 39.9 mm in diameter, 10.37 mm thick and water-resistant to 30 meters.
The diamonds surrounding the bezel are inspired by rainbows, and the octagonal bezel is set with a double row of baguettes: the inner bezel is set with 40 top-quality Wesselton white diamonds (2.05 carats), while the outer bezel is slightly beveled and set with 40 rainbow-colored sapphires (2.31 carats) in a double gradation effect.

The mother-of-pearl dial features 12 pink gold applied hour-markers, also set with rainbow-colored sapphires (ct 0.31), whose subtle hues are in harmony with those of the dial, and a subtle arrangement of baguettes and sapphires with colored sapphire markers. Luminescent pink gold baton-type hands make the hours and minutes visible.
Inside is the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 and a disc vertical clutch with a modern design that minimizes wear and tear without compromising the movement’s precision and power reserve of 45-55 hours; the watch is equipped with a flyback chronograph function that allows a new start to be made at any time by pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock, even when the central chronograph seconds hand is timing or is used as a continuous seconds hand.

The two chronograph pushers are hand-polished and satin-brushed by Patek Philippe’s watchmakers, and the CH 28-520 caliber, which has been meticulously finished in accordance with the exacting standards of the Patek Philippe Seal, can be viewed through a sapphire crystal cover.
This new chronograph is a blend of high jewelry artistry and sporty dynamism that makes it stand out. It is accompanied by three durable replica

Patek Philippe’s new Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5204G was launched last year in rose gold, Ref. 5204R-011, with a greenish gray dial and bracelet. This new Ref. 5204G-001 features a white gold case with an olive green sunburst dial on an olive green strap for a more radical green color.

The olive green dial is adorned with heliotrope decorations that create subtle shades of light, while the edges of the dial have a black gradient effect, giving it a subtle and deep luster. The timepiece is paired with a calfskin strap in the same color, with beige stitching, for a more subtle and unobtrusive look. The color scheme is distinctive, modern and timeless.
The white gold case, with a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 14.3 mm, is water-resistant to 30 meters and houses the CHR 29-535 PS Q hand-wound movement. The balanced and harmonious layout of the dial, with its faceted baton hour-markers and white gold faceted sword-shaped hands coated with luminescent coating, makes the dial easy to read both day and night. This new timepiece combines two of Patek Philippe’s highly regarded Grande Complications with seven patented technological innovations that reflect the company’s tradition of creating Grande Complication timepieces.
The Ref. 5935A-001 is the first stainless steel model to combine two of Patek Philippe’s iconic complications, with a “carbon fiber” motif in the center of the dial, adding a dynamic and contemporary touch to the stainless steel case. The motif is inspired by a limited edition of the innovative Ref. 6007 model, created to celebrate the completion of the new PP6 watchmaking building in Plainview in 2020.
With a diameter of 41 mm, a thickness of 12.75 mm, water-resistant to 30 meters, and a lustrous rose gold dial with a “carbon fiber” motif in the center, this watch is powered by the CH 28-520 HU caliber, which features a world time function that displays the time in 24 time zones at the same time, as well as an exclusive patented mechanism that allows all the time indications to be adjusted simply by pressing the push-piece at 10 o’clock. It is equipped with an exclusive patented mechanism that allows all time indications to be adjusted by simply operating the push-piece at 10 o’clock.

The watch is supplied on two calfskin straps: the original strap in grained taupe calfskin and the supplied strap in beige suede calfskin with a stainless steel folding clasp. Not to mention the design and functionality, Patek Philippe’s use of stainless steel in its timepiece collection is a rare sight indeed.
Another new stainless steel watch is the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A-011, which is in fact also part of the Nautilus collection and is made of stainless steel. Inspired by a porthole, the case has a diameter of 40.5 millimeters, a thickness of 12.53 millimeters, a water-resistance of 120 meters and a screw-down crown. The dial features a new blue sunburst pattern with a subtle black gradient around the edges. The case, bezel, pushers and bracelet have a contrasting polished and satinized finish.
The self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C FUS combines three conveniently operated practical complications: a flyback chronograph, travel time (dual time zone with two separate hour hands, including a skeletonized hour hand indicating the time at the place of origin), and a pointer-type date synchronized with the local time at 12 o’clock, with a power reserve of approximately 45-55 hours. The stainless steel bracelet with Patek Philippe’s patented folding clasp includes a lockable adjustment mechanism that extends the bracelet by 2 to 4 millimeters, making it easier to adjust.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)



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